Choosing a drift kit usually starts with steering angle. Fair enough. But once you’re paying for the parts, fitting them and setting up the car, there are a few other things worth comparing.

The IRP V1 and V2 front drift kits suit different build priorities. V1 keeps the initial cost down while offering a substantial change to the front suspension. V2 adds lighter construction and revised geometry, with differences in track width and steering angle depending on the chassis.

So, is V2 worth the extra money? Here’s how we’d approach the choice.

First, compare the kits for your car

V1 and V2 specifications aren’t identical across the IRP range. A figure quoted for a BMW E46 shouldn’t be applied to an MX-5.
Using the BMW E46 kits as an example, these are the main differences:

The E46 V2 also uses upgraded spherical bearings and revised geometry. The price difference is €260 before VAT, based on the current E46 V1 and E46 V2 listings.
That gives you a useful starting point. The next question is which of those differences matters to your build.

When V1 makes sense

V1 is worth considering when you want a dedicated drift setup while keeping enough money aside to actually use the car.

A build budget gets eaten quickly. Coilovers, alignment, tyres, event fees and the small repairs between track days all compete for the same money. Spending more on one component can mean putting something else off.

For the E46, V1 combines steel control arms with approximately 65° of steering angle, a wider front track and 30 mm of roll centre correction. It also includes camber plates, tie rods, hub add-ons and polyamide bushings. See the full V1 kit specification.

Our recommendation would be to consider V1 if you’re building your first dedicated drift car, working to a firm budget or mainly aiming for regular practice days.

That recommendation comes down to spending priorities. If choosing V1 leaves room for a proper setup and another event, that deserves consideration. There’s little value in stretching the budget for parts if the car then spends the season waiting in the garage.

When V2 is worth the extra

V2 makes more sense when you have a clear reason to want its changes.

On the E46, those include lighter chromoly arms, larger bearings, revised geometry and more steering angle potential. It also widens the track a further 20 mm per side compared with V1. IRP lists improved wheel clearance among the changes, although the final fit still depends on your wheel and tyre setup. The details are listed on the E46 V2 product page.

We’d lean towards V2 for a dedicated build where those features are already part of the plan and the rest of the car is budgeted for.

You don’t need to be competing to choose it. Equally, entering competitions doesn’t automatically make V1 the wrong choice. Think about what you need from the suspension, how much development you intend to do and whether you would otherwise be looking to replace the kit later.

“Because it’s V2” is a fairly expensive reason on its own. Wanting its specific construction and geometry changes is a much better one.

Don’t decide on steering angle alone

The angle figure is easy to compare, which makes it tempting to give it most of the attention.

A more useful question is what you’re trying to improve in your current car. Are you reaching the limit of the available steering travel? Struggling with wheel clearance? Building the front suspension from scratch? Or simply assuming more angle must be the next upgrade?

If the car already runs, describe the problem before choosing the part. A vague complaint such as “the front feels wrong” needs some investigation. Buying a kit without understanding the existing setup makes it harder to judge whether the purchase addresses the issue.

If you’re starting with a bare shell, make the decision alongside the wheels, tyres, suspension and bodywork. Those choices need to work together.

Budget for the installation as well

The purchase price is only part of the job.

For the E46, both product listings call for front coilovers, removal of the front sway bar and longer brake hoses. Fender clearance also needs planning. Both kits are intended for race use, and replacement components are available separately on request. Check the installation requirements for your chosen V1 or V2 kit before ordering.

Ask whoever is fitting the kit to quote for the complete job, including alignment and any supporting changes. It’s much easier to compare two realistic totals than to discover the extra costs with the car already apart.

Keep a record of the final setup, too. Having a starting point written down makes later adjustments easier to follow.

What if you’re building an MX-5?

Check the Mazda specifications separately.

For example, the MX-5 NA/NB V2 lists a track increase of 100 mm per side, steering angle above 65°, adjustable camber and caster, and four Ackermann positions. Its upper arms use TIG-welded chromoly with Fluro motorsport-series spherical bearings. Those are different specifications from the E46 V2, despite sharing the version name. See the MX-5 V2 kit.

Which one would we choose?

Choose V1 if keeping the whole build affordable is the priority. It’s a sensible option when you want to put money towards fitting, setup and time on track.

Choose V2 if its lighter construction and geometry changes match the car you’re building. The extra spend is easier to justify when you know which features you want and have already allowed for the supporting work.